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In early July, Lisa and I headed out with our son Jake to Boothbay Harbor for the day. We started with an early morning cruise to see puffins at nearby Eastern Egg Rock, the southernmost nesting ground for puffins on the Maine coast. We spotted seals and porpoises enroute while we listened to a wonderful naturalist discuss the intriguing history of puffins being reintroduced to Eastern Egg Rock almost 50 years ago. Soon we were watching the small plump birds and their distinctive bright orange beaks flying to and from the island practically skimming the surface of the ocean waters. They were joined by other seabirds like the black guillemots.
Afterwards, we had lunch of lobsters and steamers just outside of town at Robinson’s Wharf on a large dock overlooking the harbor in Southport. Then it was on to my favorite stop in the region, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, that we put on practically every itinerary we design to the Maine coast. It’s not just the enchanting Butterfly Garden, whimsical Children’s Garden, and the sniff, touch, and taste Garden of the Senses that make this place so special. No, they really upped the ante by recently adding 5 mega-sized trolls created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. You meander on pine-needle strewn trails along rivers and deep in the forest to find these massive sculptures hidden brilliantly in the brush. Guaranteed to captivate all ages!
We topped off the day with pints of Dinner at Maine Beer Company in Freeport, voted the best beer in the state by Beer Advocate, and a memorable dinner of tapas back in Portland at Chaval. That’s what we call a Dream Day!
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Now that the border is open to Americans, head north and escape to the great outdoors of Canada. Late summer and early fall are a great time to visit the country and I plan to do exactly that, heading to New Brunswick tomorrow. From Boston, I can be in the seaside village of St. Andrews in 6 hours. New Brunswick is the gateway to the Atlantic Maritimes, leading to exceptional sea kayaking along the coast at Fundy National Park and hiking along the newly completed Fundy Trail Parkway. I’ll also be whale watching and trying one or two craft brews in Fredericton, which has more microbreweries per capita than any other spot in Canada. Please follow along next week at ActiveTravels to see my blogs, Tweets, Instagram photos, and YouTube videos.
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Grab a tray at almost any hour from late morning to closing time at Arnold’s and more than likely you’ll be standing in a line, waiting for lobster rolls and a mound of tender onion rings to bring to nearby Coast Guard Beach, or for a fried clams or lobster dinner devoured at the outdoor picnic tables under the pines. The owner, Nick Nickerson, equates his success with the unyielding desire to find the tastiest seafood around, and if he has to pay extra to the local fishermen, so be it. Scallops that have been collected by fishermen in Cape Cod Bay arrive by 10 am. He prefers to get his clams for steamers at the Town Cove on the Eastham/Orleans border. Clams for frying can come as far away as Rhode Island, but Nickerson prefers the ones that come from sand beds instead of mud flats, stating that the latter tastes like, well, mud. For lobster, he prefers the hard shelled version found on the back shore of the Cape, off Coast Guard and Nauset Beaches. Work off your meal by playing a round of miniature golf next door.
This entry is excerpted from my latest book, New England in a Nutshell. The book/ebook is slated to published on July 2nd and you can pre-order now at Amazon. The ebook includes all hyperlinks to listings. The paperback includes front and back cover illustrations from Manhattan-based artist, Sarah Schechter, and a small sampling of photos from Lisa, who accompanied me on many of my assignments, resulting in published work for the Boston Globe.
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