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Working as a travel writer based in Massachusetts, you can imagine how many fall foliage stories I’ve been hired to write over the years. At least 100 articles, with additional chapters on the subject in each of my books for Lonely Planet, Frommer’s, Outside Magazine, Discovery Channel, and the latest, New England in a Nutshell. Name the topic—biking, mountain biking, paddling, driving, golfing, antiquing, hiking, restaurant tours, historical slants, even llama trekking, and I have a story for you. You think I’d be jaded. Yet this past October, Lisa and I brought our friends Holly and Tim from California along with our dog, Theo, on a 5-day fall foliage trip into the mountains of New Hampshire and Vermont. We were fortunate to hit peak foliage in the White Mountains and it was glorious!
One magical day, we drove the 34-mile Kancamagus Highway, the legendary route which snakes through the mountains. We would pull over and take walks along the Swift River and to Sabbaday Falls, with leaves of every color falling around us. Theo gleefully ran from leaf to leaf as we took close-up photos of our favorite samples. We would end that day at the outdoor hot tub at Topnotch in Stowe, Heady Topper in hand, looking up at the majestic hillside awash in color. Hard to get jaded seeing this year in, year out.
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In mid-December, Lisa and I took a road trip with Jake and our dog, Theo, to northern Vermont. First stop was the Dog Chapel in St. Johnsbury. Perched on a hill in the countryside, this chapel is an oasis for dog lovers around New England who plaster the walls with thousands of photos of their dogs. Then it was on to Hill Farmstead, the award-winning craft brewery located down a dirt road in the heart of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. This is the authentic part of the state, where you drive miles up and down mountainous dirt roads to reach your destination. To grab a pint of Edward at Hill Farmstead is worth the trouble. It was a relatively mild winter day, so we drank our pints outdoors with Theo, before purchasing a case of 4-packs to go. The last stop for the day was Willey’s Store in Greensboro, one of the finest country stores in the state, where we stocked up on rare Jasper Hill Farm cheeses made nearby and more local craft brew like Heady Topper from Stowe’s Alchemist Brewery.
That night, we stayed at the dog-friendly Hotel Vermont in Burlington and dined at the James Beard-award winning Hen of the Wood, located less than a block away. It was the perfect start to a two-day getaway, where Theo could romp through the snow along Lake Champlain and we could try more craft brew at Foam Brewers.
It’s been fun sharing my favorite travel days of 2022 with you this week. Thanks for looking! With trips already planned to Morocco, South Korea, and Portugal, in 2023, travels are only going to get more exciting this year.
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With Vermont now allowing vaccinated out-of-state travelers to arrive without quarantine, Lisa, our son, Jake, puppy Theo, and I decided to hit the road for two nights prior to Memorial Day Weekend. First stop was the acclaimed Hill Farmstead Brewery, known for their exceptional pale ale found only at their farm in Greensboro. We pre-ordered the beer, drove two miles down dirt roads without signage to arrive at a 7th-generation farmstead. A woman popped out, plopped the tray in the trunk, and off we went to nearby Willey’s General Store to pick up some Jasper Hill Cheese, also made in Greensboro. Then we drove another hour south to arrive at Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe.
Once we drove up the hillside and saw the surrounding mountains, you couldn’t help but breathe deeply. Surrounded by fields of green, this is the soothing remedy my mind and body yearn for post-pandemic. They even have dog friendly rooms so Theo could venture on his first road trip. We spent the days playing Frisbee golf at a relatively new course carved through the fields and forest at Trapp’s, then hiking at Moss Glen Falls to see the water cascading down. Twice we visited dog-friendly Wiessner Woods to walk deep in the forest and fill our lungs with mountain-crisp oxygen I sorely missed all these months away. At night, we dined on bratwurst and schnitzel, washed down with Trapp’s award-winning pilsner and Kolsch at their bierhall. Then went for a requisite meal at Plate in the village of Stowe, my favorite dining establishment in town and one of the few places I know where you can find a Heady Topper on the drink menu. Of course, we stocked up on Heady Topper and Focal Banger at The Alchemist before leaving. Our fridge is now happily filled with craft beer and artisanal cheese. And yes, that Edward and Citra Single Hop IPA found at Hill Farmstead was well worth the detour to get there.
Interested in a pet-friendly room at Trapp Family Lodge? Please let ActiveTravels know and we’ll find you a room!
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Last time I stayed at the Wilburton Inn, I tried belly dancing, sang children’s songs in a big singalong, and learned about the history of conflict resolution from ancient Greek times to the present. No, Manchester, Vermont’s Wilburton Inn is not your typical New England inn. Come here for a stay and you leave as part of the multi-talented Levis family, who have now been running this mansion in the mountains a mind-boggling 33 years!
The bucolic 30-acre destination resort recently rebranded as The Wilburton and is now featuring eight vacation homes to accommodate groups of 6-100 for buyouts, weddings and reunions. The Battenkill Valley Mansion, located on its own private five-acre estate just half a mile from The Wilburton, is a sprawling 15-bedroom mansion ideal for groups of up to 34 guests. It was built as a wedding present for the daughter of the Chicago railroad tycoon who built The Wilburton. Additional vacation homes on the property include the eight-bedroom Reunion House, three six-bedroom homes (Equinox Views Villa, Strawberry Hill Villa and Green Mountain House) and the two-bedroom Innkeepers Cottage. All vacation homes feature fully appointed kitchens, dining rooms, fire pits and washer-dryers, making them ideal for summer and foliage Vermont getaways.
Additionally, now that Vermont is welcoming vaccinated travelers, the resort is offering a special Vaxication Special. Now through June, if you show your vaccination card, the third night is on the house. Lastly, be on the lookout for a special Bridgerton-themed event July 16-19. There will be a formal lawn party with Regency dances, a breakfast hosted by Lady Wilburton (the American cousin of the mysterious Lady Whistledown) a garden tour and promenade, and costume contest. Ooh la la!
Please let ActiveTravels know your dates and we’ll check availability and happily introduce you to the welcoming Levis family and their adorable canine concierge, Jetson.
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“Vermont is open,” said Nate Formalarie from the Vermont Department of Tourism on a zoom call last week with representatives from all the Vermont ski areas. “You just have to adhere to the state guidelines,” Nate adds, which for most of us is either a 14-day self-quarantine before arrival in the state or 7 days of self-quarantine and a negative COVID test. You then have to go online and reserve a lift ticket and possible parking reservation at the ski area you want to visit. Once on mountain, I can think of few places I’d rather be during a pandemic than a Vermont ski area. You’re already wearing a mask because it’s cold outside and you’re freely gliding around the mountain outside with few crowds, except down at the base which will be limited. Expect food trucks, fire pits, and much more. Sugarbush will provide private cabanas at the base which have to be reserved in advance. Smugglers’ Notch Resort is offering private ski lessons for the entire family. The classic cross-country skiing retreat, Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, is featuring backcountry Nordic tours. Jay Peak in northern Vermont usually caters to Canadians, but since borders are still closed, the mountain will have far less traffic this year. Stowe, Okemo, and Mt. Snow are all part of Vail Resorts, which is offering package deals on their Epic Pass like the Northeast Value Pass, which gives you access to 18 ski area in the Northeast and priority reservations. Please contact ActiveTravels if you need help with lodging suggestions!
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The kids are stand-up paddleboarding near the middle of the lake. My wife is sea kayaking with her siblings and their spouses closer to the shoreline. Steady wind blowing through my hair, I’m at the tiller of an 18-foot sailboat accompanied by Granny Franny and her longtime beau, Saul. To celebrate a special birthday for Fran, my wife’s extended family decided to book a week at the classic family retreat on the shores of Lake Champlain, Basin Harbor. One glance at the lake from the Adirondack chairs perched on a bluff just outside the main dining room and you understand the allure. On the opposite shores are the steep rock cliffs called the Palisades and beyond that, the spine of New York’s Adirondack Mountains. The Vermont side is not too shabby either, a bucolic blend of dairy farms, horse pastures, and their own requisite peaks, the Green Mountains. Come summer, this region is a warm embrace of emerald green fields and blue waters.
The beauty of this type of resort is that everyone, including the kids, has their independence. If Fran and my son Jake want to play a game of tennis, off they go. If Lisa’s brother, Jeff, wants to throw a Frisbee with his son, Micah, after a competitive game of shuffleboard, go for it. We see each other at breakfast, sporadically throughout the day and then meet up for dinner. Yet, most afternoons, we find each other at the small beach, swimming over to the dock, and lounging on chaise lounge chairs with a pint of Vermont’s Switchback Ale in one hand, book in the other. I can’t resist the chance to bike every day. Any avid road biker will tell you that Addison Valley, Vermont, where Basin Harbor Club is located, is easily one of the top five biking destinations in North America. The backcountry roads have very little car traffic, great uphill climbs and downhill runs, and around every bend is another dairy farm, massive red barn, white church steeple, and glorious vistas of mountains and lake.
This entry is excerpted from my latest book, New England in a Nutshell. The book/ebook is slated to published on July 2nd and you can pre-order now at Amazon or at the independent bookstore, Northshire, located in Manchester Center, Vermont and Saratoga, New York. The ebook includes all hyperlinks to listings. The paperback includes front and back cover illustrations from Manhattan-based artist, Sarah Schechter, and a small sampling of photos from Lisa, who accompanied me on many of my assignments, resulting in published work for the Boston Globe.
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Arriving at Lake Willoughby from the south, the dark blue waters come into view, dwarfed by faces of rock that stand directly across from each other—Mount Hor and Mount Pisgah. Here, cliffs plummet precipitously over 1,000 feet to the glacial waters below. The scenery becomes even more enchanting as you snake your way to the 2,751-foot summit of Pisgah. The trail starts easily on switchbacks. Halfway up, take a slight detour to the left to stand atop Pulpit Rock. This small, semi-circular ledge juts out of Mount Pisgah like a box seat at a Broadway play. The arduous trail proceeds upward in a spiral fashion. On a clear day, you should be able to spot the spine of the Green Mountains and that distinctive peak seen across much of Vermont, Camel’s Hump. Who needs to visit nearby St. Johnsbury’s Athenaeum and view Albert Bierstadt’s famous painting, Domes of Yosemite, when you can see such natural beauty come to life less than an hour north?
3 hours. Moderate. From West Burke, take State Route 5A North for 6 miles to a parking area on the left-hand side, just south of Lake Willoughby. The South Trail begins across the highway.
This entry is excerpted from my latest book, New England in a Nutshell. The book/ebook is slated to published on July 2nd and you can pre-order now at Amazon. The ebook includes all hyperlinks to listings. The paperback includes front and back cover illustrations from Manhattan-based artist, Sarah Schechter, and a small sampling of photos from Lisa, who accompanied me on many of my assignments, resulting in published work for the Boston Globe.
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Thankfully, coronavirus cases and deaths have plateaued and are hopefully now on the downslope in Massachusetts. Obviously, our health and safety are still the No. 1 priority, but slowly, we’re starting to see an interest in possible travels this summer and fall. Lisa and I, and are our son, Jake, have been holed up in our house like the rest of you for a good two months now. So we understand your need to dream about a new locale that’s anywhere but the backyard. But having gotten a number of you home safely from abroad in late February in early March, we want to be damn sure that the places we send you in 2020 have a good degree of social distancing, are regional, and, if not regional, can be found after one relatively quick flight. This is not a good time to be connecting in an airport. We also have to be concerned with individual state regulations. For example, Maine wants to quarantine all out-of-state visitors for 14 days upon arrival. This is currently on the books through August, which would restrict all hotel stays.
This week, we decided to reach out to some of our favorite outfitters and see what’s happening this summer and fall. First up, DuVine Cycling. If you had the chance to join Andy Levine, owner of the Cambridge-based DuVine Cycling, on the ride he created for ActiveTravels members in the fall of 2017 from Wellesley to Concord, you know they’re a top-notch biking outfitter. Lisa and I had the good fortune to bike with DuVine in Puglia the fall of 2019 on one of our most memorable trips. There’s been a demand this summer for private regional bike trips this summer and fall. Here’s what they’ve created. Pricing is based on a minimum of 6 guests, so 3 couples, or 1-2 families.
Hudson Valley Highlights:
• Enjoy all three nights at Troutbeck, a stylish and historic country retreat in the heart of farm country on the New York-Connecticut border
• Bike over covered bridges, through sleepy towns, and into fertile farmland in a pastoral paradise that’s surprisingly close to New York City
• At private visits and meals, sample farm-fresh produce with local producers and meet the chefs spearheading the region’s farm-to-table renaissance
• Taste artisanal whiskey and bourbon made from grains grown on the grounds of a boutique distillery
• Ride to lunch at Connecticut’s award-winning Arethusa al Tavolo restaurant
Vermont Bike Tour, 6 Days, Highlights:
• Cross the Green Mountain State on Vermont’s extensive network of unpaved roads, a traffic-free paradise of packed-dirt gravel
• Spend a day cycling to local farms in the Mad River Valley, culminating in a totally locally sourced picnic in a mountain pasture
• Enjoy insider access to local chefs and innovative farmers during private meals and visits
• Cool off after a challenging day of cycling with a dip in the local lake or swimming hole
• Stay at three of Vermont’s most luxurious and historic hotel properties
Vermont Bike Tour, 4 Days Highlights:
• Cycle beside the Ottauquechee River and past historic Taftsville Covered Bridge to a cheese tasting at Thistle Hill Farm
• Visit Vermont’s most well-known microbrewery, Long Trail, for a tour and tasting
• Go leaf-peeping from the seat of a bicycle, feeling the warmth of the fall sun
• Watch a glassblowing demonstration and dine at the riverfront flagship location of glassmaker Simon Pearce
ActiveTravels is here to help you get away during these difficult times. If you’re itching to leave the house, please let us know and we’ll toss around some travel ideas.
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