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In August, Lisa and I went to a wedding in Chicago. After not having been to Lisa’s hometown for nearly 2 years, I can enthusiastically tell you that the city never looked better. We had a spacious corner suite on the 19th floor of The Pendry, an art-deco wonder originally built in 1929 as the Carbon and Carbide Building. Out our hotel window, we could view the faces seen on the Crown Fountain Video Sculpture at Millennium Park. We loved our breakfasts at the French Brasserie-style Venteux in the morning, before wandering over to the RiverWalk and the Lake Michigan shoreline to see arguably the best collection of architectural wonders in the country. We relished the opportunity to grab one of the city bikes and pedal along the shoreline, only to look up in awe at the 110-story Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower) and the vast assortment of skyscrapers surrounding the building. A remarkable sight. We would bike all the way out to Lincoln Park to have lunch with Lisa’s Uncle Wally and Cousin Jenny, then bike back in the glorious sunshine, only enhanced by the vast waters and crowded beaches by our side.
It was fun looking back on my favorite travel days in 2023. Hope to have many more in 2024. Our job at ActiveTravels is to create lasting memories for you and your loved ones. Let us know how we can help!
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Working as a travel writer based in Massachusetts, you can imagine how many fall foliage stories I’ve been hired to write over the years. At least 100 articles, with additional chapters on the subject in each of my books for Lonely Planet, Frommer’s, Outside Magazine, Discovery Channel, and the latest, New England in a Nutshell. Name the topic—biking, mountain biking, paddling, driving, golfing, antiquing, hiking, restaurant tours, historical slants, even llama trekking, and I have a story for you. You think I’d be jaded. Yet this past October, Lisa and I brought our friends Holly and Tim from California along with our dog, Theo, on a 5-day fall foliage trip into the mountains of New Hampshire and Vermont. We were fortunate to hit peak foliage in the White Mountains and it was glorious!
One magical day, we drove the 34-mile Kancamagus Highway, the legendary route which snakes through the mountains. We would pull over and take walks along the Swift River and to Sabbaday Falls, with leaves of every color falling around us. Theo gleefully ran from leaf to leaf as we took close-up photos of our favorite samples. We would end that day at the outdoor hot tub at Topnotch in Stowe, Heady Topper in hand, looking up at the majestic hillside awash in color. Hard to get jaded seeing this year in, year out.
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In early November I had the privilege of traveling to Florence, Venice, and Milan with a wonderful group of travel advisors hosted by Largay Travel, our link to the upscale Virtuoso consortium. It was an extravagant week of staying at 5-star properties and dining at Michelin-starred restaurants. Hey, someone has to do the research for members of ActiveTravels who will soon travel there!
We had great guides throughout our trip, touring the Duomo in Florence and the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, where you can visit two 16th-century synagogues still in use. But I really loved gaining access to local artisans, who were down narrow alleyways or streets you would never find on your own. That’s the sign of a good walking tour.
In Florence, we met a goldsmith, Nerdi Orafi, who works in the same building Salvatore Ferragamo once designed women’s shoes. She creates exquisite handmade necklaces and earrings with her husband in a small studio, their wares so exceptional that Dolce & Gabbana hired the couple to create jewelry for a fashion shoot. Of course, I couldn’t leave without buying earrings for Lisa, designed with three rings, the same symbol Michelangelo used on the marble he worked with. Just around the corner I met a 4th-generation marble paper artist and book binder, Riccardo Luci, who designs the patented peacock feather look on paper Florence is known for. He showed us his process of creating patterns and lightly applying the paper to the paint and water combination to soak up the patterns. Fascinating!
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Every day on DuVine’s 6-day biking trip into the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region this past September was a daily dose of much-needed serenity. Biking with our good friends, Debbie and Michael, we zipped up and down the rolling hills past olives groves, vineyards, cattle, sheep, and forests of thick, gnarly looking cork trees. The days would become a blessed blur as we slowed down on the cobblestones to shout “Bon Dia” to the many women sweeping their front terraces and the men sipping espressos at the cafes. We would stop to let a shepherd and his flock stroll by, peer at the large slabs of marble being excavated in the small mines, watch a large wood stork fly from his oversized nest, and visit a cork factory to view the layers of bark being harvested. All the while, we’d be smelling the sweet eucalyptus, sour fermentation of grapes, and the pungent smell of manure.
Led by our wonderful leader, Joao, who had the good fortune to grow up and still live in Alentejo, and his sidekick, the gregarious Brazilian, Michele, we were treated to local treats like fresh figs straight from the tree or a creamy sublime local cheese that you needed a spoon to scoop out. Washed down, of course, with award-winning wines that never find their way to America due to their small number of bottles produced. After biking some 30 to 40 miles a day on the undulating roads, sometimes into a strong headwind, we were rewarded with gluttonous meals.
People ask how DuVine differs from other biking outfitters, and I usually note the smaller group size. Yet, where they really shine is at private meals of locals that I won’t soon forget. My favorite day on the trip ended with dinner at Dona Maria Vineyards, where we first stomped on grapes during the height of the harvest and then had a fantastic dinner in a home built in the mid-18th century by the King of Portugal for his mistress at the time, the namesake Dona Maria. We dined with the current owner, Isabel, and her two Jack Russell Terriers, Bowie and Ziggy, and drank copious amounts of her exceptional Grand Reserve. It was like walking into Cinderella’s ballroom before the clocks strikes twelve.
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Thanks to an impressive subway system which whisks you away to all parts of the city, you can see most of the major sites of Busan within a day. That’s exactly what Lisa and I did with our son Jake last May as part of our small group Intrepid tour around South Korea. First stop was atop a hillside at the Gamcheon Cultural Village, once the poorest part of the city after the Korean War ended. The neighborhood has now reinvented itself as a hub for artists and artisans. Colorful murals cover many of the walls and small shops sell everything from bracelets to tapestries.
Then it was off to Jagalchi Market, the largest seafood market in South Korea. Located at the Namp Port section of the city, you can spot the fishing boats and their nets drying just outside the maze of stalls that seem to go on forever. Every type of fish and mollusk imaginable, both live and dried, can be found here including octopus, squid, eel, large crabs, even flying fish.
We worked off our meal of fresh seafood by strolling along Haeundae Beach, arguably the most exquisite stretch of beach in the country. Busan is already excited about hosting the World Expo in 2030 and at the beach, we found sand sculptures celebrating the upcoming event. We walked onto adjacent Dongbaekseom Island, home to a lighthouse and the celebrated Carving Rock, where a 14th-century scholar inspired by the beauty inscribed words still found on the rock. The most famous site on the island is the circular Apec House built into the hillside overlooking the ocean. It was constructed for the 2005 Asian-Pacific economic summit, where 21 heads of state were in attendance, including former US President George W. Bush.
We finished our time in Busan aboard a catamaran on a sunset cruise that departed from the docks not far from Dongbaekseom Island. The cityscape, including tall condo buildings and hotels like the Park Hyatt rising from the shoreline, is best seen from the water. But the highlight is sailing under Busan’s version of the Golden Gate Bridge, Gwangan Bridge, lit up at night. Neighboring boats were setting off fireworks and with glasses of soju in hand, South Korea’s signature drink, we toasted to another magical day.
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After bagging a New England peak, you’ve earned that right to hoist a pint. So when I came upon the recently published Beer Hiking New England (Helvetiq) at my local bookstore, covering two of my favorite subjects, mountain climbs and craft brew, I had to grab a copy. Written by Carey Kish, the longtime hiking and camping columnist for the Portland Press Herald and editor of the AMC Maine Mountain Guide, the book features 50 hikes and nearby local breweries to toast your achievement. They include several of my favorite climbs and walks in the region, including Mount Pisgah in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont; Mount Moosilauke, the 10th highest peak in the White Mountains; Quoddy Head in Downeast Maine; and the Great Island Trail, a long trek along the coast of Cape Cod. What I didn’t realize is how many craft breweries we have in New England, ones I never heard of, from Shackett’s Brewing Company in Bristol, New Hampshire, to Thimble Island Brewing Company in Branford, Connecticut.
Kish does a great job describing where the trailhead is located, allotted time, length, elevation, level of exertion, and important to me, whether I can bring my dog, Theo. Then he outlines the nearby brewery, giving a description of their signature pours and address. I’ll happily throw this book in the car to lead me to new discoveries this summer.
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In mid-December, Lisa and I took a road trip with Jake and our dog, Theo, to northern Vermont. First stop was the Dog Chapel in St. Johnsbury. Perched on a hill in the countryside, this chapel is an oasis for dog lovers around New England who plaster the walls with thousands of photos of their dogs. Then it was on to Hill Farmstead, the award-winning craft brewery located down a dirt road in the heart of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. This is the authentic part of the state, where you drive miles up and down mountainous dirt roads to reach your destination. To grab a pint of Edward at Hill Farmstead is worth the trouble. It was a relatively mild winter day, so we drank our pints outdoors with Theo, before purchasing a case of 4-packs to go. The last stop for the day was Willey’s Store in Greensboro, one of the finest country stores in the state, where we stocked up on rare Jasper Hill Farm cheeses made nearby and more local craft brew like Heady Topper from Stowe’s Alchemist Brewery.
That night, we stayed at the dog-friendly Hotel Vermont in Burlington and dined at the James Beard-award winning Hen of the Wood, located less than a block away. It was the perfect start to a two-day getaway, where Theo could romp through the snow along Lake Champlain and we could try more craft brew at Foam Brewers.
It’s been fun sharing my favorite travel days of 2022 with you this week. Thanks for looking! With trips already planned to Morocco, South Korea, and Portugal, in 2023, travels are only going to get more exciting this year.
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Cote is one of those Michelin-starred restaurants in Manhattan that you have to book exactly 30 days prior to your reservation, or you have very little chance of dining there. Remarkably, our son, Jake, snagged a reservation for one of the outdoor tables at 5:30 pm in early November. Fortunately, it was an unusually warm day and we walked the High Line from the large spiraling sculpture they call The Vessel in Hudson Yards all the way down to the Whitney Museum. A retrospective of Edward Hopper’s work is currently on display and it was fascinating to see his perspective of the elevated railroad a century ago after walking the High Line. Other rooms showcased his love of the New York theatre scene, including actual ticket stubs he and his wife saved, and his preservation work in Washington Square.
Then we met up with our daughter, Melanie, at Cote, listened to the chill house music outdoors and dined on a steady flow of Korean steak, like wagyu and prime rib, accompanied by a large assortment of kimchi and other fermented veggies. One of those memorable meals where the dining actually lives up to the hype.
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Every day on our Backroads Danube River Cruise this September could have easily made it on this list, from biking high atop a ridge in Germany’s rural Bavaria region to riding from capital city to capital city, Vienna to Bratislava. But Day Four on the itinerary certainly stands out. It started with a short 13-mile warm up along the river on bike trails. Then it was off to see the impressive Melk Abbey perched on a hill atop the small town, looking more like a palace with its large courtyards, countless rooms, and vast book collection in the library.
The 23-mile afternoon ride was arguably the best of the trip, along the Danube in the heart of the Wachau wine region of Austria. Leaving Melk, terraces started to rise along the river, soon joined by the stone ramparts of forgotten castles. The ridges only got higher and soon small towns dotted the shoreline with their ubiquitous steeples piercing the clouds above. It was hard to bike because you wanted to stop repeatedly to take another photo better than the last.
It started to drizzle when taking a short ferry across the river. Soon we were biking straight through the vineyards, looking at the vines overflowing with fat grapes. We arrived in the small Medieval town of Durnstein, where we relaxed outdoors overlooking the vineyards at Alter Kloster Keller. We wisely chose to grab a bottle of their local Gruner Veltliner and an oversized charcuterie plate packed with local pates, sausages, hams, and cheeses. Perhaps we lingered a bit too long because when we got back on our bikes, the clouds were ominous and it started to pour. Five miles later, we arrived back at the boat drenched, only to find our fearless trip leader, Malcolm, hosting a party under a tent in a torrential downpour for all of us wet bikers. We drank shots of schnaps and glasses of Riesling while listening to a soundtrack that featured, “It’s Raining Men.” Memorable!
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In early July, Lisa and I headed out with our son Jake to Boothbay Harbor for the day. We started with an early morning cruise to see puffins at nearby Eastern Egg Rock, the southernmost nesting ground for puffins on the Maine coast. We spotted seals and porpoises enroute while we listened to a wonderful naturalist discuss the intriguing history of puffins being reintroduced to Eastern Egg Rock almost 50 years ago. Soon we were watching the small plump birds and their distinctive bright orange beaks flying to and from the island practically skimming the surface of the ocean waters. They were joined by other seabirds like the black guillemots.
Afterwards, we had lunch of lobsters and steamers just outside of town at Robinson’s Wharf on a large dock overlooking the harbor in Southport. Then it was on to my favorite stop in the region, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, that we put on practically every itinerary we design to the Maine coast. It’s not just the enchanting Butterfly Garden, whimsical Children’s Garden, and the sniff, touch, and taste Garden of the Senses that make this place so special. No, they really upped the ante by recently adding 5 mega-sized trolls created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. You meander on pine-needle strewn trails along rivers and deep in the forest to find these massive sculptures hidden brilliantly in the brush. Guaranteed to captivate all ages!
We topped off the day with pints of Dinner at Maine Beer Company in Freeport, voted the best beer in the state by Beer Advocate, and a memorable dinner of tapas back in Portland at Chaval. That’s what we call a Dream Day!
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