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This Summer, Consider Hiking New Hampshire’s Cohos Trail

In 1978, a reporter for the Coos County Democrat named Kim Nilsen had a zany idea, to create a long distance hiking trail through remote Coos County. About the size of Rhode Island, Coos County sits at the northernmost tip of New Hampshire, connecting the White Mountains with Quebec. One of the most remote sections of New England, this swath of New Hampshire is known for its large lakes, hidden waterfalls, and 4,000-foot peaks. And now, thanks to Nilsen’s vision, a spectacular new 162-mile long-distance trek called the Cohos Trail. The last stretch of trail was cleared this past October. If you savor serenity in scenic locales, the Cohos doesn’t disappoint. Hike for a day on one of the 30 peaks and you’re more apt to see moose than humans. At least until words gets out about the debut of this new hiking trail. For now, there are three shelters on the trail, but there are plans to build ten more. 
 

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La Réserve Paris Hotel and Spa Makes its Debut

And now some good news from Paris. Opening this week in the 8th arrondissement, off the Champs-Elysées and close to Place de la Concorde, is the boutique La Réserve Paris Hotel. Housed in a former mansion once owned by the designer, Pierre Cardin, the hotel features 26 spacious suites and 14 rooms. Suites include personal butler service and an in-room wine cooler. The hotel’s French restaurant, Le Gabriel, will be run by chef Jérôme Banctel, previously at the helm of the two-star Michelin restaurant, Senderens. A spa will offer three treatment rooms, gym, sauna, and a 52-foot indoor pool. Ooh la la! 

 
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Visiting Voyageurs National Park in Winter

Two centuries ago, only Native Americans and French Canadian “voyageurs” saw the pelt-rich terrain of northern Minnesota. Today, Voyageurs National Park is still a haven for furry animals and hardy souls in winter. Brave the often extreme weather conditions (ice on the lakes, for example, can be five feet thick) and you’ll be in the good company of moose, white-tailed deer, mink, beavers, bald eagles, and the eastern timber wolf. Rangers at Voyageurs’ Rainy Lake Visitor Center teach clinics on how to make your own snowshoe and, once finished, take people deep into the forest of pines, birches and cedars on evening wolf howls. Two of the best ways to get lost is on the 2.5-mile Sullivan Bay snowshoe trail and the 11-mile Black Bay cross-country ski trail. Sullivan Bay is a hard-packed up-and-down route on the shores of Kabetogama Lake (one of Voyageurs network of 30 lakes). The groomed Black Bay Trail zips past beaver ponds under a grove of aspens. Spearfishing for northern pikes is popular on Kabetogama in winter, but that’s one sport rangers don’t teach. However, the park staff does plow a 7-mile road on Rainy Lake so anglers can set up their ice houses to fish for walleye and burbot.
 
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All Eyes on Amsterdam This Spring

Last year, all the talk was about London. They were still basking in the glow of the royal wedding of Will and Kate, celebrated the Queen’s Jubilee with more pomp and circumstance, and, of course, was the backdrop for all the drama and excitement of the Olympics. In 2013, Amsterdam is the European city celebrating a banner year. Some of the major events happening there this spring:
 
• On April 14, after years of renovations, Amsterdam’s famous art museum, the Rijksmuseum, will reopen its doors to the public. They will return Rembrandt’s renowned painting, The Night Watch, to its newly renovated gallery space and you will be able to enjoy the redesigned landscaped gardens.
 
• On April 30, Queen Beatrix, who has spent 33 years on the Dutch throne, will be succeeded by her son, the Prince of Orange. Prince Willem-Alexander will be inaugurated and his three daughters, ages 9, 7 and 5, will become princesses.
 
• In May, the Van Gogh Museum will also reopen to fanfare to celebrate its 40th birthday. The Museum has been closed since September and has been undergoing all kinds of renovations for this big event.
 
• Designated a UNESCO Heritage Site in 2010, Amsterdam’s Canals are having a big birthday this year. 400 years ago, the city started the construction of the ring of canals, and provided 
better transportation throughout the city, more than doubling its size. See the stylish canalside houses and check out various activities on and around the canals this year.
 
Guest Post by Lisa Leavitt 
 
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Holiday Cheer in Toronto—Visiting the St. Lawrence Market with Toronto Historian, Bruce Bell

There’s no better way to see a city then with a local, and if that person has to be a passionate historian, then you’ve hit the jackpot. Yesterday morning I had the pleasure of going on a 90-minute tour of the St. Lawrence Market with Bruce Bell, the same Bruce Bell that’s responsible for placing 100 plaques around the city detailing the most historic moments in Toronto. Bell met me at the St. Lawrence Market, where the city of York originated. Walk inside the thriving food market and you can still see the façade of the first city hall, occupying this site since 1854. I’ve always loved a good market and the St. Lawrence has such a rich history that it’s no wonder National Geographic recently called it the number one food market in the world. 

 
Start with a local classic, the peameal bacon sandwich at Carousel Bakery, the same Canadian bacon sandwich Anthony Bourdain raved about on his show. Also ask for a butter tart, an old French Canadian recipe that tastes like pecan pie. Except for the camel, crocodile, and kangaroo meat sold at Whitehouse Meats, much of the produce is local. This includes a large selection of cheeses and wines from nearby Niagara-on-the-Lake. Downstairs in the market, you’ll find more ethnic fare, like the pierogies, latkes, knishes, and blintzes at European Delight. Work off your meal by visiting other Old Town Toronto sites with Bell like St. Lawrence Hall and St. James Cathedral. Making its debut in 1850, St. Lawrence Hall is where P.T. Barnum introduced Canadian audiences to his pint-sized performer, Tom Thumb, and to the great Swedish soprano, Jenny Lind. Also on the wall of fame is a photo of a younger Bruce Bell. He’s a local treasure and well worth the 25 bucks for an engaging trip to the birthplace of Toronto.
 
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Canoe the Upper Iowa River, Cresco, Iowa

Don’t worry about crowds on this forgotten run in the glacial-carved valley of northeast Iowa. The Upper Iowa can be paddled for 110 miles from Lime Springs to the Mississippi, but a good 31-mile jaunt from Kendalville to Decorah snakes through cliff-lined gorges below 200-foot-high chimney rocks. Bald eagles frequently soar over the limestone outcrops and deer, mink, raccoon and beaver call the area home. Chimney Rock rents canoes, offers trip planning, and provides a free shuttle. 
 

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Escape to Alcatraz

It wasn’t until this last trip to San Francisco that I finally made it to Alcatraz. The ferry over to The Rock was always booked and even though I grew up on a steady diet of true crime books, there’s countless other sights in San Francisco to pick from. But I have to say that I loved it, especially the captivating 45-minute audio tour narrated by former Alcatraz prisoners and prison guards. “Move over to the next cell,” says a scruffy voice, “this is where Frankie planned his escape.” It really gives the empty prison cells so many more layers. A word of advice: book your ferry well in advance. 
 
Before heading to Alcatraz, we wisely chose to have lunch at Fog Harbor Fish House. Located on Pier 39, the second floor seafood restaurant overlooks the expanse of San Francisco Bay. Sourdough bread, fresh out of the oven, arrived at the table. Then we downed local oysters, a spicy garlic shrimp dish that was a hit at our table, fried calamari, and a wedge salad. Service was excellent and we easily made it to the Alcatraz ferry on time. 
 

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