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October 2015 Newsletter: Canadian Ski Resorts, New Hotels, Just Ahead

The favorable exchange rate for the American dollar continues to ensure that Canada is the place to be this winter. If you haven’t looked lately, $1 US will now fetch $1.31 in Canada, an 11-year low for the Canadian loonie. So if you’ve ever wanted to ski Whistler, Tremblant, or the Canadian Rockies, now would be the time. In this month’s ActiveTravels newsletter, we talk about our favorite places to ski in Canada, including off-the-beaten track Red Mountain. We also want to introduce you to Just Ahead, a guided audio tour through many national parks that is easily accessible from your smart phone. Amanera, the ultra-posh resort opening in the Dominican Republic on November 23rd, is one of the new Caribbean, Florida, and Mexican properties we discuss. Another new hotel, The Taconic, will be the first Kimpton property in Vermont when it opens in Manchester, Vermont, this winter. Lastly, I preview the recent trip I took with Dan Austin, owner of Austin Adventures, to Colorado, where the legendary Broadmoor resort has expanded their holdings, opening three boutique properties in the mountains and rivers outside of Colorado Springs. Check it out, and, if you ever have any travel-related questions, please ask. 

 

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Lake George Week, A Recap of Our Lodging and Food

We were fortunate to spend our first two nights this week at The Sagamore, the premiere resort on the shores of Lake George. Set on a 70-acre island near the village of Bolton Landing, this large wedding cake of a hotel has been the lake’s top address for over a century. Steps from the patio lead past the manicured lawn to the Sagamore’s shoreline, offering views of Dome Island, a large round uninhabited forest of firs that looks almost tropical, a place that King Kong would find homey. On the opposite shores is an uninterrupted carpet of trees that soon rise to 2,000-foot mountains. The serenity of the lake stems from a decision by civil engineers not to extend the road more than eight miles on the eastern shore. So when you reach the Sagamore, a little less than halfway up the lake, there are no signs of civilization on the other side.

Our final two nights were spent at Fort William Henry Hotel, within easy walking distance to all the arcades, shops, and restaurants in Lake George Village. Perched on a hill, Fort William Henry also rewards guests with wonderful views of the lake. I enjoyed sitting in a rocking chair and taking in the vista of lake and mountains while writing this blog.  
 
Of course, I made the 30-minute drive to my favorite restaurant in the lower Adirondacks, The Grist Mill. Located in Warrensburg, overlooking the rapids of the Schroon River, the Grist Mill is housed in a genuine working mill built in 1824. Yet, this is no museum. It’s a popular restaurant for foodies in the know who travel from as far as the Saratoga track in the summer months.  The consistently tasty food includes sesame-encrusted ahi, veal scallopini, and rack of lamb.
 
Sitting under a gazebo on the shores of the lake, peering at the ridge of mountains, it was easy to love the Boathouse, just north of Lake George Village. The food matched the view, with juicy cuts of sirloin and strip steak washed down with an affordable pinot noir. We topped it off with a dessert of tollhouse cookie pie and granny apple cheesecake. I can’t believe I never dined at the Boathouse before, but I’ll be back. 
 
We also had dinner at Cate’s Italian Garden in Bolton Landing and East Cove in Lake George Village, two classic restaurants that my parents adored. Cate’s is known for their mom and pop Italian fare, including excellent chicken marsala, veal parmigiana, and salmon. At East Cove, we enjoyed the lobster clambake, including a lobster, steamers, clam chowder, and corn on the cob. We made two stops on the emerging Adirondack Craft Beverage Trail, Cooper’s Cave Ale Company and Adirondack Winery. Both venues impressed me so much that I’m hoping to come back and write a story for The Boston Globe solely on the trail, especially when the new mobile app makes its debut next spring. Last, but certainly not least, there was no way Jim and I were going to miss breakfast at Lone Bull, where we both ordered a huge stack of pancakes.
 
I want to thank Joanne Conley for her help setting up my trip this week and giving me the opportunity to reflect and write about my years at Lake George. Also the chance to revisit many of the spots that I hold true and dear to my heart like my parent’s favorite picnic spot at the tip of Commission Point. I also want to thank my brother Jim for joining me and taking many of the photographs that appeared on this blog and on my twitter page, @ActiveTravels. I’m taking next week off to celebrate my birthday with my family in Portland, Maine. I’ll be back on August 18th. Thanks again for checking in!
 
 
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One Helluva Climb

39 year-old Dan Nevins lost both his legs in Iraq. Neil Duncan, 26, had both his legs blown off in Afghanistan driving over a buried explosive in 2005. Kirk Bauer, 62, lost one of his legs in Vietnam. Together, the trio just finished climbing to the peak of 19,334-foot Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. If you’re doing the math at home, that’s three men with a combined one leg they were born with. The six-day climb was part of Wounded Warrior Sports Challenge, a series of extreme adventures aimed at permanently disabled veterans. Designed by Disabled Sports USA, out of Rockville, Maryland, the company holds the same belief as me that adventure is the best form of therapy. Along with mountain climbs, they also feature a 26-mile run in the desert of New Mexico, scuba, sailing, and a 100-mile bike trek. Kudos to Dan, Neil, and Kirk for not only attempting but making it to the top!
 

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Not a Good Time to Be a Rhino in South Africa

South Africa officials said 333 rhinos were poached in 2010, nearly three times as many that were lost in 2009. Another five rhinos were killed in the first several weeks of 2011. The increased demand for the rhino horn as a cure for impotence in Asian countries or as a ceremonial dagger in Middle Eastern countries has fueled the latest killings. In neighboring Zimbabwe, another seven rhinos have been murdered in the past month. This is not some random shooting by locals. Zimbabwean park rangers said the poaching is so sophisticated now that the villains are using helicopters and light aircraft to land, get their treasured horn, and fly away. They are well organized and funded by big money syndicates. Equipped with night vision goggles and a slew of artillery, this new breed of poacher will be hard to stop. Expect the 21,000 rhinos in South Africa, the most of any country, to dwindle quickly if the government can’t provide the resources to do battle with these criminals.
 

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Rock Climbing in Kananaskis Country with Yamnuska Moutaineering

Less than an hour outside of Calgary, you reach the U-shaped valley of Kananaskis, the tumultuous river of the same name that beckons whitewater rafters and kayakers, and the snowcapped jagged peaks of the Canadian Rockies that’s ripe with hiking and rock climbing opportunities. Albertans have no qualms about letting the masses rush by on their way to Banff, Lake Louise, and the Icefields Parkway up to Jasper. This is their mountain playground and what a spectacular spit of scenery it is.

On a family vacation with Austin Lehman Adventures several weeks ago, we hooked up Dave Stark, a highly respected guide at Yamnuska Mountaineering. So well-respected, in fact, that on the steep trail up to the rock face on Mt. Yamnuska, a man smacked Dave on the chest while passing and said, “Have fun up there, Dave.” Moments later, the soft-spoken guide told me that guy was the first Canadian to ever climb Everest back in 1982.

The sedentary rock was perfect for finding ledges you could grip with your hands or plant your feet. We threw on our harnesses as Dave went over ways to grip the rock through edging, using the inner part of the soft-soled shoes to balance, or smearing, heading straight up as you rely on the traction of the sneaker. While my son is an expert at the indoor wall climb, none of us had ever tried rock climbing before. Especially on a wall of rock that overlooks the spectacular valley below. Jake was first and climbed up the face like Spiderman. Yet, it was my 13 year-old daughter, Melanie, who really impressed me. She went up twice, doing the more challenging climb the second time. I know because I did it, barely. When I made it to the top on that first climb, I looked down and freaked out. Especially when Dave shouted to kick my legs off the rock and rappel down. After the slight hesitation, I did what he said and soon found my way back at the bottom. You really can teach an old dog a new trick. One that turns 47 years of age today.
 

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Quick Escape: Provincetown, Massachusetts

June and September are our favorite months to visit P’town, before or after the summer crowds arrive. Stay with our friends at the Salt House Inn, smack dab in the center of Provincetown (with parking, no less). Then go whale watching, bike up and down the dunes on the unique Province Lands Bike Path, see the glorious pine warblers swoop from pine to pine just inland of the parking lot at the Province Lands Visitor Center, and, of course stroll the stretch of beach at Race Point surrounded by the sea. For dinner, head to that P’town classic, the Mews, to dine on lobster risotto, pan seared scallops, or almond crusted cod. Remember that you can take the 90-minute high-speed ferry from Boston’s Long Wharf to Provincetown and avoid an often congested drive. 

 
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Getting in Shape for that Summer Biking Trip

On a bike tour with Bike Vermont years ago, my brother and I watched as a guy, distracted by cows, flipped his bike over and broke his tooth. He said he hadn’t been on a bike in five years. Don’t make the same mistake. With many bikers heading out on summer and fall biking trips, now’s the time to get ready. Even if it’s a “No Experience Necessary” excursion, you should try the sport beforehand and be in somewhat decent shape. Don’t wait until the last minute to condition. If you plan on taking a week-long biking or walking outing, begin aerobic activity four to six weeks in advance, two to three times a week. And make sure you’re on the right trip by asking what level of fitness is required? Is this hike an obstacle course better suited for Marines, a stroll in the park, or somewhere in between? How many hours a day are we on the bike? You want to find an adventure that ideally suits your ability and prior experience in the sport. Websites are not always accurate so it’s imperative to speak to a human being.  

 

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