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Canada Week: New Ferry Service Between Vancouver and Victoria

I spent the early part of last week in Manhattan for Canada Media Marketplace, where I met with media reps from all over Canada to hear about the latest travel developments. In a chat with Amber Sessions from Tourism Vancouver, I learned that Vancouver would finally be launching a direct ferry to Victoria. This saves the 40-minute drive to the ferry terminal in Tswwassen from Vancouver and another 30-minute drive from Swartz Bay Terminal on Vancouver Island to Victoria. Frankly, it also eliminates the need to rent a car in either destination. You also have the option to continue on by ferry from Victoria to Seattle to complete a great 8 to 10-day triangle. The Vancouver to Victoria ferry debuts in May. Cost starts at $120 Canadian for the 3 hour cruise. If you’re heading to Vancouver later in the year, be on the lookout for the unveiling of the $600 million Parq Vancouver complex next to BC Place Stadium. The new waterfront development will feature the first JW Marriott in Western Canada, The Douglas, a boutique Autograph Collection property, and eight restaurants and lounges designed by James Beard Award nominated restaurateur Elizabeth Blau. 

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Lake George Week, Adventures on Land

Most parents gauge the growth of their children by their height. I gauge the growth of my two kids by how far they can go on a treetop obstacle course called Adirondack Extreme. Located on the hillside outside of Bolton Landing, the course is set 10 to 50 feet off the grounds, amidst the tall pines and maples hidden in the forest. After a brief introductory talk on safety, you hook into harnesses and tackle five different courses, each a bit more challenging than the next. Along the way, you’ll climb rope ladders, walk across suspended bridges, and as a finale, zipline side-by-side. 
 
The waters of Lake George easily seduce, but there’s a slew of activity on the shores of the lake that are also worth checking out. You can climb Prospect, Buck, and Thomas Mountains, and be rewarded with exceptional vistas of the Adirondacks. Yesterday, I took a short hike around the forest and fields at Up Yonda Farm. I strolled past a sugarhouse and small butterfly garden before hiking uphill on a short climb through a mixed forest of birches, maples, and white pine. Eventually, I arrived at a clearing and another glorious view of Lake George.  
 
At night, everyone heads to Lake George Village, packed with T-shirt and fudge shops, video arcades, haunted houses, a requisite water park, and my personal favorite, Goony Golf, a miniature golf course crowded with huge fairy tale characters. My summer is not complete if I don’t get to play one round of Goony Golf. 
 
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Adventures in New Brunswick Week—Sea Kayaking the Bay of Fundy

We started the day at low tide at the iconic Hopewall Rocks, sunlight splintering through the sea stacks or flowerpots rocks as the locals call them (many of the formations have trees sprouting out of the top, thus resembling flowerpots). Walking along the beach snapping photo after photo at the picturesque blend of towering rocks, cliffs, and sea, we walked on the rocky beach and clay-like mud that lined the Bay of Fundy floor. Soon we heard squawking of birds only to peer up at one of the rocks and see a majestic peregrine falcon perched high above. We continued south on Route 114 to reach Cape Enrage at the height of high tide, water and wind whipping around us atop a cliff and lighthouse that juts out onto the sea vulnerable to the elements. 

After lunch of fresh pan-fried haddock cakes and a tangy tomato soup, we were energized and ready to go sea kayaking with Fresh Air Adventure on the outskirts of Fundy National Park. Owner Gina was excited to have us try out her new toys, surf skis, slender and speedy 17-foot ocean Epic V7 kayaks that she uses to race in Hong Kong, where she spends half the year. We got acclimated to the kayaks as we made our way down the Upper Salmon River, an estuary, slicing through the water with a paddle so light the stroke felt almost effortless. Then we turned around and went past the handful of fishing boats before making our way out to the Bay of Fundy. We had to paddle against the winds on the way out to open water, looking at Nova Scotia across the bay. The tide was still coming in with a moderate chop as waves spilled into the kayak. I peered at the tall spruce and firs that stood tall atop the craggy rock of the Fundy National Park bluffs before a larger wave swept me up and I found myself swimming in the salty drink. Gina guided me back into the kayak and we turned around to feel the ebb and flow of the highest tides in the world. I quickly understood why they call these kayaks surf skis. You paddle hard atop the crest of the wave and you feel the sudden rush of water surge you forward, like surfing. It was an exciting way to end an exhilarating day. 
 
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Cruise the Marquesas on the New Aranui 5

By far the most memorable cruise I’ve ever taken was a 2-week trip with Lisa aboard the freighter cruise ship, the Aranui. We traveled 750 miles north of the island of Tahiti to the Marquesas Islands, the archipelago most distant from any continent. The only way to visit all six of the inhabited Marquesas was aboard this upscale freighter that offers air-conditioned cabins and three French meals daily. The ship’s main function, however, is to transport goods to the local residents. She comes bearing bricks and cement, pipes and tractors, fishing nets, medicines, and food, all the necessities for an isolated existence; and returns to Tahiti with copra, dried coconut meat that is processed into oil, soap, and cosmetics.  

 
While burly crew members haul sacks of rice and other goods off the boat, guests get the opportunity to take guided hikes, go horseback riding, and visit the locals. Nuka Hiva is the island where a 22-year old sailor named Herman Melville jumped ship and wrote about his experience with cannibals in his first book, Typee. Paul Gauguin’s gravesite rests on the neighboring island of Hiva Oa. Sitting under a plumeria tree on a hillside over the bay, the stone is simply inscribed, “Paul Gauguin, 1903.” A three-hour cruise from Hiva Oa brought us to the verdant island of Fatu Hiva.  Here, we took a ten-mile hike into the stunning Bay of Virgins, the most majestic site of the voyage. Towering rock cliffs rises from the ocean’s depth, forming a v-shaped buttress that’s illuminated by the sun’s yellow-green rays. In the distance, serrated ridges, cloud-piercing peaks and impassable gorges stand as a monument to the centuries of volcanic fires that formed this fantastic landscape. That sight is hard to forget. 
 
On December 12th, the Aranui will be introducing a brand new ship, the Aranui 5. The 254-passenger ship features 103 spacious cabins, many with balconies. Public spaces include the Sky Bar with sweeping panoramic views, two lounges, library, video and computer room, outdoor swimming pool with a whirlpool, fitness room and massage room. Far more luxurious than the ship Lisa and I went on in 1994! The itinerary also includes a stop at Bora Bora on the return trip. Price starts at  $2,781 per person. 
 
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Biking to Five Lighthouses Outside Portland, Maine

I spent my 50th birthday on Saturday biking with my extended family of ten on a guided day ride on the outskirts of Portland. Led by Norman Patry, owner of Summer Feet Cycling, we biked along the scenic shoreline of South Portland and Cape Elizabeth to five lighthouses. They included such picturesque gems as Bug Light, the smallest lighthouse in operation in America, and Portland Head Light, painted by the likes of Edward Hopper. Near Portland Head Light, we bought lobster rolls from a food truck and dined overlooking Portland Harbor. The lobster rolls were excellent, chockful of fresh meat, and you could order them Maine-style (with mayo), Connecticut-style (lightly buttered), spiced with curry (loved it) or wasabi. Washed down with locally made Eli’s Blueberry Soda and topped off with ginger molasses cookies from Standard Bakery in town, it was a perfect Portland meal. The ride ends at Kettle Cove, a small beach, just past Two Lights State Park. Summer Feet offers a slew of other bike trips in Maine including a self-guided 3-day ride near Kennebunkport that sounds enticing. But if you only have a limited amount of time in the state, this 5-hour ride gives you a good taste of Maine and comes highly recommended. 

 
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Boothbay Harbor’s Linekin Bay Under New Ownership

For the first time in its 106-year history, Linekin Bay Resort will have new owners. I first visited the resort in 2012 with my family, penning a story for The Boston Globe after a memorable weekend. Located on one of the many inlets that form the landscape of midcoast Maine, Linekin Bay has one of the finest locales in New England to sail and sea kayak. Spend your day with the family boating, hiking with a naturalist, and swimming. Then dine communal style on Maine specialties like a lobster clambake and blueberry pie in the main lodge. The new owners, both local Mainers, have already begun to rehab the aging buildings, creating 14 new rooms in the new Linwood Lodge. They still aim to retain the rustic charm of this classic retreat, the only all-inclusive sailing resort in the Northeast. 

 
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Boston Primer for Incoming College Freshman and Parents

Many families are dropping their kids off this week at colleges across the US. If you happen to be hitting Boston, here’s a tip sheet I originally wrote for The Boston Globe Sunday Magazine.
 
In Harvard Square, the Charles Hotel (800-882-1818; www.charleshotel.com) is within easy walking distance to the campus. Upstairs, renowned Boston chef Jody Adams is working her magic at Rialto (617-661-5050; www.rialto-restaurant.com), while across the hallway at Henrietta’s Table (617-661-5005; www.henriettastable.com), Peter Davis is known for his love of local produce, cheese, fish, and microbrews. 
 
Closer to the M.I.T. campus, the boutique Kendall Hotel (866-566-1300; http://kendallhotel.com) was built within the shell of a former firehouse. Down Mass Ave, Miracle of Science (617-868-ATOM; http://miracleofscience.us) offers large burgers and tasty veggie skewers. Cornmeal fried oysters, pecan-studded catfish, and other tantalizing southern treats can be found within cozy confines of Hungry Mother (617-499-0090; www.hungrymothercambridge.com). 
 
Hyatt Place in Medford (781-395-8500; http://bostonmedford.place.hyatt.com) has discounted rates for families visiting Tufts. Tu Y Yo (617-623-5411; http://tuyyo2.com) serves authentic Mexican fare like chicken in a mole sauce in neighboring Somerville. 
 
A central hub for Boston University students is Kenmore Square. Stay at the Hotel Commonwealth (617-933-5000; www.hotelcommonwealth.com) and then head downstairs to dine at one of the best seafood restaurants in town, Island Creek Oyster Bar (617-532-5300; http://islandcreekoysterbar.com). BU students also like UBurger (617-536-0488; http://uburgerboston.com), with two locations nearby. 
 
Prospective Boston College students and their families can stay in Brookline’s Coolidge Corner at the Courtyard by Marriott (617-734-1393; www.marriott.com). There are a slew of restaurants in walking distance, including the deli, Zaftigs (617-975-0075; www.zaftigs.com), and Vietnamese food at Pho Lemongrass (617-731-8600; www.pholemongrass.com).  
 
Hotel Indigo (617-969-5300; www.newtonboutiquehotel.com) and the Sheraton Needham (781-444-1110; www.starwoodhotels.com), both off Route 128, are good places to stay if you’re visiting Brandeis, Wellesley, and Babson. Ming Tsai wows the suburban crowds with his pan-Asian fare at Blue Ginger (781-283-5790; http://ming.com/blueginger.htm) in Wellesley. Several blocks away, Café Mangal (781-235-5322; www.cafemangal.com) is known for their mega-sized salads. Within walking distance of the Sheraton Needham, Spiga (781-449-5600; http://spigaristorante.com) serves excellent pastas, thin pizzas, and other Italian fare. 
 
If you’re visiting other colleges in the Northeast this fall like Williams, Wesleyan, and Cornell, please consult the original article. 
 

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