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Apres-Ski Dining Favorites in New England

For my latest Liftopia blog, I was asked to divulge my favorite après-ski dining choices in New England. After a day of hitting the slopes, I’m not content with a beer and a hot tub. No, my body craves a good meal. I’ve made it a habit to find the finest places in town to dine. They run the gamut from casual pizza joints to innovative continental cuisine.

 
At the base of Stowe, Stowe Mountain Lodge went overboard to use as much indigenous wares as possible, so there’s real Vermont birch twisting around the columns and the marble on stairs leading to the bar comes from Lake Champlain. The resort also prides itself on using local produce. At Solstice Restaurant, expect Vermont-based artisanal cheeses, microbrewed ales, and locally farmed vegetables and meats. 
 
For skiers heading to Okemo, a favorite in Ludlow is DJ’s. You have to love a place that still features a salad bar in this day and age, included in the price of an entrée. Grab a booth and get ready to dig into the chicken marsala, salmon, and ravioli dishes. Best yet, they have my favorite Vermont ale on tap, Switchback. 
 
For a town with a year-round population hovering around 1300, there are a surprising number of good dinner options at Loon. Start at the mother and son run Gypsy Café on Main Street. The eclectic menu features Indian-style chicken samosas, Middle Eastern lamb loin dipped in the best hummus this side of Tel Aviv, Mexican fajitas, and a spicy Thai red curry duck. Wash it down with one of their strong margaritas and you’ll understand why the place feels so festive. 
 
Started in 1998, the Flatbread Company now owns ten pizzerias from Maui to Whistler. Yet, it’s their locale in North Conway, near Cranmore Ski Area, that has the Granite State all abuzz. Maybe it’s the Zen-like ambiance with all those Tibetan designs and the massive wood-fired clay oven plopped down in the center of the room. But I happen to think it’s the Coevolution, topped with roasted red peppers, red onions, olives, goat cheese, garlic, and mozzarella. Much of the produce is from local organic farms and you can taste the difference.
 
In Bethel, Maine, you can usually find me at Sud’s Pub after a day of skiing Sunday River, downing one of the 29 beers on tap. Located inside the Sudbury Inn, start with the hot Sudbury wings or a cup of tasty clam chowder. Then choose between the burgers, pizzas, or entrees like grilled sirloin tips or blackened salmon. Happy dining! 
 
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The Lowdown on Extra Virgin Olive Oil

With concerns over mislabeling and outright fraud, extra virgin olive oil isn’t looking so virginal these days. Even New York Times is getting in on the joke with a recent slide show suggesting that “Made in Italy” EVOO is actually made from Spanish, Portuguese, and Tunisian olives. So when I heard that Italian wine and olive oil expert, Bill Marsano, was going to be in Boston to talk about the controversy, I jumped at the opportunity to question him. Last Thursday, Marsano spoke at the Seaport Hotel’s spanking new Action Kitchen as part of the Flavor Your Life Campaign, which seeks to promote the benefits of cooking with EVOO. 

 
Yes, Marsano, said there are many blended extra virgin olive oils on the market that are not nearly as healthy as a singular farm or village hand pressing its own olives. He mentioned a fortified village in Tuscany, Volpaia, whose olive oil is high on his list, along with most olive oil coming out of the region of Puglia on the Italian boot. But he noted you don’t have to pay an exorbitant amount for genuine Italian EVOO. Marsano showed me a bottle of Belluci Premium, found at Costco, where on the back of the bottle is a QR code. Scan the code with a smart phone and you can trace each bottle back to its origin and the Italian olive grove it came from.
 
Marsano also gave us several important tips. Never buy pomace extra virgin olive oil, produced with the help of a large amount of chemicals. Also your olive oil has a shelf life of about 4 months once opened and always store in a shaded spot away from heat. You cannot detect rancid oil from smell. Rancid oil has a nutty taste. Good olive oil has a silky smooth texture with a bit of spice at the end. Hope this helps the next time you hit the grocery store. 
 
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5 Favorite Travel Days in 2013, Wine Tasting at Cristom Vineyards, Dinner at Imperial, Oregon

I was recently snorkeling with a trucker in the Keys. When he heard I was a travel writer, he asked what my favorite state was. “Based on cruising?” I asked. He nodded. “Oregon,” I said. “Mine too,” he answered, and this is a guy who’s spent his entire life driving back and forth across the States. I’ve been fortunate to go on two phenomenal driving trips of Oregon with my brother, Jim. We first spent a week driving along the Oregon coast, dreaming of buying a second home in Yachats. This June, we returned to drive the interior. To be honest, every one of those days on that weeklong trip could easily make my Top 5 list of the year, from touring Hood River’s “Fruit Loop” with our friend Kirby Neumann-Rea to rafting the Imperial River to hiking along the rim of Crater Lake to biking around the campus of the University of Oregon. All was bliss. 

 
Yet, it’s hard to top drinking the latest batch of wine with one of your favorite winemakers, Steve Doerner at Cristom Vineyards, and then have dinner that evening in Portland at Vitaly Paley’s latest restaurant, Imperial. Jim and I both purchased a case of wine at Cristom, including sweet-talking Doerner to include six bottles of our beloved “Jessie Vineyard,” the last of which we just drank over New Year’s. Then we hightailed it from Salem to Portland for dinner at the James Beard-award winning chef’s new space on the ground floor of Hotel Lucia. We started with a simple plate of just-out-of-the-ocean Kumamoto and Tillamook Bay oysters, dipped in horseradish for spice. Perfection. Stan’s Charcuterie Plate, a sampling of pate, liver, and sausages, would make a Francophile weep with joy. In fact, Jim, just back from the Cannes Film Festival, said it was better than any of the pates he had in France. 
 
Oregon, we took far too long to return between trips. Jim and I won’t make that mistake again. 
 
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Mad River Valley Bed and Brew This Weekend

What do you do in Vermont between fall foliage and the start of ski season? Drink! The state, and especially the Mad River Valley region around Waterbury, is home to some of the finest craft brews in the country. Take, for example, the beloved ultra-hoppy Heady Topper. The Alchemist, the microbrewery that now cans the beer, had to close down their store this week because it was just too popular and overcrowded. You can still sample the Heady Topper at Prohibition Pig, a favorite watering hole in Waterbury. In fact, if you sign up for the Mad River Valley Bed and Brew Weekend (November 15-17, December 6-8, December 13-15), a 14-seat tour bus will pick you up at your lodging for private tours of many of the region’s best microbrews, including Lawson’s Finest in Warren, and Rock Art Brewery in Morrisville. Cost starts at $85 per person and includes 2 nights at a hotel, lodge, or bed & breakfast in the Mad River Valley, the private Saturday tour of 3-4 craft breweries, a snack box with local Vermont goodies to get you through the day of touring, a Mad River Valley tasting glass, and discounts at local restaurants featuring local craft beers and farm to table food. 

 
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Dine Out Vancouver Festival in January

If your winter plans include skiing Whistler, you’d be wise to visit Vancouver from January 17 to February 2, 2014. That’s when the city plays host to Canada’s largest restaurant festival, Dine Out Vancouver. Not only can you sample menus from hundreds of restaurants around the city, all for a prix fixe cost ($18, $28 and $38 per person), but participating hotels will offer rooms priced at $78, $108 and $138 per night. As I mentioned in my Boston Globe article, Vancouver is one of my favorites cities for foodies in North America. From dim sum in Chinatown to the gluttony of local fruit and seafood found at the Granville Island Market to the intriguing food truck options around town, it’s hard not to be impressed. 
 
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Seasonal Offerings from CLIF Bars

Travel as much as I do and it’s always wise to have several Clif Bars in your backpack. I munch on them as a snack during outdoor adventures or as a meal when I take flights that don’t serve food. Last week, out on my last bike ride of the fall foliage season here in New England, I went to my local supermarket and was happy to find Clif Bars that fit the season, Spice Pumpkin Pie, Pecan Pie, and Iced Gingerbread. Yes, just like my favorite brewers concoct an Oktoberfest or pumpkin ale this time of year, Clif Bars is putting out some intriguing offerings that fit the season. I loved the Spiced Pumpkin Pie, perfect for an autumn outing. My son, Jake, wouldn’t share the Pecan Pie bar. All he said was that “it was sweet and crunchy and that they should sell it year round.” 

 
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Wine Tasting in Humboldt County

Humboldt County might be best known for its largest cash crop, but if you want to keep it legal, they’re also producing exceptional wine. We realized that over dinner last week at the Victorian Inn in Ferndale when we ordered a 2006 Briceland pinot noir. The fruit was lush with nice hints of cherry and pepper to cut down the tannins. Humboldt Wine Association is now home to 22 vineyards. One of the finest is Fieldbrook Winery, located just outside of Arcata. Owner Bob Hodgson, a former professor of oceanography at nearby Humboldt State University, has been making wine at his glorious country home since 1976. His wines have received their fair share of acclaim throughout the state, especially after winning the “Best of Show” at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. But you won’t find many of the 1000-1500 cases of wine he produces each year outside California. Hodgson wants to keep his merlots, pinot noirs, cabernets, and pinot grigios reasonably priced with more than one third of his wares going to a local wine club. 
 
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Adventures in Oregon, The Artisanal Quality of the Food and Drink

It’s easy describe the electric blue waters of Crater Lake, the snowcapped peak of Mount Hood, the emerald forest of Ecola State Park nestled along the coast, and the rolling vineyards of Willamette Valley. But the missing ingredient I find in most stories on the state is that they fail to talk about the artisanal quality displayed by the Oregonians. Due to its proximity to Washington, they’re often spoken in the same breath, but Oregon actually has much more in common with Vermont. This stems from the passion behind all the quality local food and drink. Oregonians don’t just create coffee, they create the best coffee I’ve had in America, a strong yet smooth blend that needs no milk or sweetening. One spoon of the black licorice ice cream at Ruby Jewel in Portland and you’ll be booking your return trip. Other highlights include tasting the Hood River strawberries at the farmers market in Portland, sampling Stan’s charcuterie plate at Vitaly Paley’s new restaurant, Imperial (which my brother, Jim, just back from the Cannes Film Festival said was better than anything he tried in France), biting into the spicy and sticky large wings at Pok Pok, downing a pint of Larry Sidor’s smoky peated scotch ale at Crux in Bend, and trying the surprisingly dry and refreshing hard cider created by longtime winemaker Rich Cushman at HR ciderworks in Hood River. Sure, I love the spectacular scenery found in the state. But the reason I know I’ll return to Oregon as often as possible is simply because Oregonians care enough to produce great product and have the local resources to make that dream come to fruition. 
 
I’ll be writing about Oregon one more time on Monday, when I describe my hike in Crater Lake National Park. It will be the first of five of my favorite adventures in the national parks. This will only whet my appetite for hiking hut-to-hut in the White Mountains of New Hampshire the following week. Enjoy the weekend and stay active! 
 
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Adventures in Oregon, Sampling the Cristom Pinot Noirs

Last time my brother Jim and I were in Salem, we tracked down Cristom Vineyards and barged in on winemaker Steve Doerner. We had just spent a week traveling the Oregon coast and our favorite pinot of that trip was a Cristom Jessie Vineyard served at the Portland den of fine Northwestern cuisine, Wildwood. On this latest trip, we called Doerner well in advance and were greeted by him and the owner’s daughter, Christine Gerrie, the Cris in Cristom (along with her brother Tom). Many of the Oregon pinots are bright, redolent of fruit, have a fine nose, but on his small plot, Doerner has managed to bring layers of complexity to his wine. The Jessie, for example, named for the owner’s grandmother, has hints of black cherries, tangy plum, and cinnamon, with a smooth finish that will have you reaching for your credit card to order a case, the exact move my brother and I made. The Marjorie Vineyard, named for the owner’s mother, is bigger and bolder than Jessie but has that same soft finish, with a nose full of black raspberry. At most wine tastings, I’m happy to spit. But when you make it to Cristom as infrequently as I do, you take your time, luxuriating in the wine and drink every drop, even if it is only 11 in the morning.
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Adventures in Oregon: First Stop, Hood River

The winds on the Columbia River Gorge were far too strong for stand-up paddleboarding when we arrived on its shores. According to friend Kirby Neumann-Rae, Editor of the Hood River News, the winds were “nukin.” That didn’t stop the windsurfers and kiteboarders from hitting the water and the air in this wind tunnel that separates Oregon from Washington. Neumann-Rae soon led my brother and me on a drive away from the river to the fertile valley backed by the snowcapped peaks of Mount Hood and Mount Adams. Called the Fruit Loop, a 35-mile drive leads to pear orchards, fields of lavender, alpaca farms, farm stands, wineries, and an emerging hard cider scene. This is not the cloyingly sweet beverage you’re accustomed to drinking. We made three stop at HR ciderworks, Fox-Tail Cider, and Hood Valley Hard Cider, and were surprised that the drink tasted more like dry sparkling wine than apple juice. It was crisp, refreshing, and could easily be paired with the Chinook salmon and steelhead trout the region is known for. Sample the cider on the back deck picnic tables of the Solera Brewpub in Parkdale and you’ll be mesmerized by the spectacular view of Mount Hood.