Former NY Times Restaurant Critic Bryan Miller and His Struggles with Depression

Bryan Miller's Dining in the Dark When I first moved to Manhattan in the late 80s, there was only one name associated with food reviews, New York Times restaurant critic Bryan Miller. A friend of my brother, Jim, I had the good fortune to participate in a handful of his restaurant reviews and marveled at his ability to down copious amounts of wine and food and not scribble one note, only to write an insightful and witty column about that restaurant the next day. His jovial personality was infectious, full of humor and intelligent conversation. So it came as a shock to me that this bright light of a man also suffered from depression as a result of being bipolar. His struggles would shorten his tenure at the Times, but thankfully he continues to write. In his latest book out today, Dining in the Dark: A Famed Restaurant Critic’s Struggle with and Triumph Over Depression, Miller details how he coped with the highs and lows of being bipolar, bringing his keen insight, inspiration, and that buoyant sense of humor along for the ride. The obvious comparison is Anthony Bourdain, who sadly succumbed to depression while having the palm of the world in his hand. Thankfully, one of the food world’s most beloved writers is still with us to tell his story.

New England Fall Foliage Will Look Glorious This Year

Vermont fall foliage“I can give you a strong assurance that it’s going to be a good year for fall foliage,” says Richard Primack, a professor of biology and plant ecology at Boston University in yesterday’s Boston Globe. That’s great news for the 20 or so clients of ActiveTravels we’re sending to the region in the next two weeks. The weather report looks perfect, with many sunny days ahead and highs of mid-60s, ideal for getting those colorful leaves to shine brightly. For those of you heading to New England this autumn that we didn’t have a chance to work with, pick up a copy of my latest book, New England in a Nutshell, to find ways to leave the crowds behind and enjoy the foliage all to yourself. Enjoy!

New Brunswick Week: Sea Kayaking Around Deer Island

Sea Kayak Deer IslandOne look at Bruce Smith’s effortless stroke paddling in the waters that slope down from his home base in Deer Island and you immediately know you’re in good hands. The owner of Seascape Kayak Tours has a fluid turn of the arms, feeling almost Zen-like with the surroundings. And wow, what a playground he gets to kayak, the granite-studded, pine-laden islands in Passamaquoddy Bay, the large body of water that separates New Brunswick and Maine. This is Smith’s 28th year in business, first starting in St Andrews before making the wise move to Deer Island. The remaining 8 months of the year, he leads sea kayaking and hiking trips off the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica.

We took the short ferry to Deer Island from the New Brunswick mainland, geared up, got cozy in our double kayaks, and within 5 minutes we were so close to harbor seals, you could hear them breathe. The waters were serene, with sunlight shimmering on the light surf. The next 4 hours were a magical blur as we could also hear porpoises breathing as pods swam by, arching their backs in and out of the water; paddled past historic circular herring weirs and more modern Atlantic salmon fishing farms; followed a family of great blue herons along the boulder-strewn shoreline; found a mink with a fish in his mouth atop a seaweed covered rock; watched both harbor and gray seals pop their heads out of their waters and look at us in disbelief, like “What are you doing here?” and stopped for a lunch of ripe red rose hips on a deserted beach. All the while we paddled in little surf around quiet islands with no boat traffic. None. When I asked Smith where all the recreational boats were on this blissful weekday morning, he noted that many boaters are spooked by the Bay of Fundy tidal shift, the largest in the world. I would be too! One minute you’re in deep ocean waters at high tide, the next your boat’s docked on the ocean floor, nowhere to go. But for the sea kayaker, this is sheer bliss.

I want to thank Neil Hodge at Tourism New Brunswick for designing a fantastic trip this week. I’d also like to thank Canada for opening its borders to Americans. It was a joy to get away to savor the scenery, adventure, fresh fish, and craft beer of New Brunswick.

New Brunswick Week: Fundy Trail Parkway Extends to Fundy National Park

Fundy Trail ParkwayIf you have the good fortune to meet Beverley Franklin at the Long Beach Visitors Center on the Fundy Trail Parkway, as we did this past Sunday, by all means stop and say hello. After all, it was her father, Mitchell Franklin, a hotel and movie theater developer, who had the passion to create a coastal drive that started near his farm in St. Martins and finished at Fundy National Park. 23 years after the Fundy Trail Parkway debuted in 1998 and some 53 years after Beverley Franklin first drew a map of what she thought the 30-kilometer trail could look like, the extension to Fundy National Park will finally have a soft opening in the next two weeks.

We drove some 90 minutes from Saint John, 13 kilometers past Adair’s Wilderness Lodge (which I suggest you type into your GPS) to reach the East Gate of the Fundy Trail Parkway. Within 5 minutes, we were at our first stop, Walton Glen Gorge, where the granite stretches 200 meters high and the gorge spans some 900 meters. Walk the short kilometer walk to the observation tower and you’ll soon be staring in awe at the Little Salmon River as it surges through the Eye of the Needle. Across from you are sheer rock cliffs and to your right the green mountains slope to the Bay of Fundy in the distance.

The waters of the Bay of Fundy will be by your side the rest of the day. Try to arrive at the gate when it opens at 9 am because you’ll need a full day to see all the mesmerizing sights before the trail closes at 5 pm. A series of lookouts soon follow on the left as you peer down at the verdant slopes sliding into sea, not unlike the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. It only gets better from here. Long Beach is a marvel to behold, stretching about a third of a mile out to sea at low tide, when you can walk some 2 kilometers on a loop. It was honestly hard to tear me away from this spot, as we found colorful green, gray, and granite pebbles, fantastic rock formations, and ripples of sand on the ocean floor that would be awash in water in a matter of hours. Edward Weston would have a field day here and so would any other photographer.

Fundy Trail ParkwayFor lunch, head to the Cookhouse for a fantastic turkey sandwich, where the meat is processed by chef Tracy’s turkey farmer neighbor on bread that was baked that morning. Afterwards, opt for the insanely good molasses cake or a slice of bumbleberry pie as you walk around peering at the century-old photographs of loggers cutting down the cherished white pine to build tall masts at the shipping port of Saint John. Then work off lunch by climbing across the suspension bridge at Salmon River, where one old-timer told me the waters were once teeming with so much salmon you could practically walk across the river. There’s one last requisite stop at Fuller Falls to see the water cascading down the slick rock into the Bay of Fundy before arriving at the West Gate and the seaside town of St. Martins.

Mitchell Franklin had to face much adversity to make his dream a reality, but he’ll be happy to know that it’s finally come to fruition. I can’t wait to return to bike the parkway and then go sea kayaking at Fundy National Park.

New Brunswick Week: The Debut of the Uncorked Tasting Room at Saint John City Market

Uncorked Tours at Saint John City MarketFor 9 years, sisters Gilliane and Nathalie Nadeau ran the popular Uncorked Tours, small group walking tours lasting 3 hours that gave visitors the inside scoop on those historic alleys and brick buildings that line the hillside neighborhood called Uptown. New Brunswick’s largest port was expected to receive a record-breaking 200,000-plus cruise ship passengers in 2020 and the Nadeau sisters employed a staff of 6, often doing 3 tours a day up to that point. But we all know what happened after that—the pandemic reared its ugly head and like many others, Gilliane and Nathalie were forced to pivot. They turned their attention to the oldest market in Canada, Saint John City Market, which dates back to the 1870s. Step foot inside and you can still walk up or down the original Market Street surrounded by purveyors like Lord’s Lobster, which have been serving lobster rolls, battered haddock, fish cakes and smoked salmon for over 60 years; Slocum & Ferris, which opened in 1895 and bakes fresh bread daily, ideally suited for a breakfast or lunch sandwich; and some of the newer vendors like Kim’s Korean Food, known throughout the city for his tasty bibimbap and ramen.

In the heart of the pandemic, Gilliane and Nathalie took a corner of this storied market and created a contemporary tasting room featuring New Brunswick’s best beers, wine, and microdistilleries. Grab a Foghorn Esty Extra Special Bitter on draught or a or a cocktail like Slocum’s Maple Smash made from Moonshine Creek White Pup. Locally curated art is found on the walls, currently photographs of the city. The sisters hired a curator who changes the art monthly. Outside is a patio lined with tables to enjoy a drink from 5 to 8 pm.

Afterwards, do yourself a favor and make a reservation at East Coast Bistro, my favorite restaurant in the province. I’ve been here at least a half dozen times, ordering fresh fish like Black Pepper Seared Tuna or Horseradish Glazed Salmon and always walked away with a smile on my face. Start with the dreamy mixed mushroom toast sweetened with walnut cream, or the gnocchi, soft as pillows and topped with homemade tomato confit—guaranteed to have you returning to Saint John as often as me.

New Brunswick Week: Enjoying the Whiskey and Craft Brew of Fredericton

Craft Brew in FrederictonWhen I last strolled into the Lunar Rogue Pub in 2014, owner Frank Scot had over 500 types of whiskey for sale. Today, he has close to 950 varieties that include Scotch, Irish Whiskey, Japanese Whiskey, and a whole glass enclosed back cabinet devoted to bourbon, which, of course, I had to partake. If you’re searching for a taste of Killyloch 67 or Glen Flagler 73, no problem. It will only set you back $800 an ounce in Canadian dollars. Or better yet, have a taste of the Mortlach 12 Year Old, one of Frank’s favorites, as he sits down and joins us for dinner.

It’s no surprise that Whiskey Magazine has named the Lunar Rogue one of the great whiskey bars of the world. In 2016, Scotland bestowed on Frank the coveted Keepers of the Quaich title for being such a wonderful ambassador for Scotch. Scott is also founder of the Canada’s oldest whiskey festival, one of the rare joint ventures between the Canadian government which controls the liquor trade, and a private business owner. The 4-day festival takes place each year in November and usually sells over $500,000 worth of whiskey to some 6,000 collectors that come to Fredericton from across the globe. This year’s event might not happen since alcohol sales surged during the pandemic and there’s a shortage of whiskey. That would be a shame because the Feast for the Senses event, where whiskey is paired with the Turner, Sisley, Dali, and Lucian Freud paintings, among others at Fredericton’s renowned Beaverbrook Art Gallery, is one of the signature New Brunswick events of the year, often selling out in minutes. In the meantime, you can download the Lunar Rogue app and read about all those whiskeys Frank has managed to collect.

If you prefer craft beer to whiskey, Fredericton now boasts the largest number of craft brewers per capita in the the Atlantic Maritimes with 26 local breweries, cideries, distilleries, and wineries. Not too shabby for a population a tad over 65,000. While in town, I tried the Yippee IPA from one of the oldest establishments, Picaroons, a pilsner from Graystone, and an Island Red from Gahan House Riverside, set in a former bank. The beers are even tastier if you pedal some of the 120 kilometers of bike trails found in Fredericton, much of which line the shoreline of the wide St. John River. Second Nature Outdoors rents bikes and offers guided rides that feature the best of the local cuisine and beers. It’s the perfect introduction to a city that should not be overlooked on your New Brunswick itinerary.

New Brunswick Week: First Stop, St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

Kingsbrae Garden, St Andrews For the past two decades, Canada’s Atlantic Maritimes and particularly New Brunswick have been one of my favorite outdoor playgrounds to sea kayak, bike, and hike in or around the Bay of Fundy waters. But it’s not just the stunning granite ledges, huge tidal shifts, and towering pines that beckon. The majestic scenery certainly excites, but it’s the people of this province and their distinctive passions that keep me returning as often as possible.

Take, for example, one Mrs. Lucinda Flemer of St. Andrews. In 1998, she had the brilliant idea of taking the century-old hedges and boxed gardens of her youth and creating arguably the most magical botanical garden in Canada. In 2010, I was so enraptured with the 27-acre grounds that I named the Kingsbrae Garden one of my top travel destinations of the year, competing with trips to Africa, Europe, and Latin America that year. When I returned yesterday, I was even more impressed. The yearly sculpture contests in the garden has led to one of the largest permanent sculpture gardens in Canada. The perennials were still in bloom, as they are throughout the spring, summer, and fall. This time, the pinkish-purple echinacea radiated throughout the garden. The sensory garden is just as seductive to touch and smell as I happily felt the velvety lamb’s ear and inhaled the powerful lemon scented geraniums.

Next door to the garden is Kingsbrae International Residence for the Arts and a glorious amphitheater for outdoor concerts and performances created in 2016. Monthlong arts residences are open to artists, sculptors, writers, and filmmakers and I had the good fortune to meet one illustrator working on a children’s book based on the groundbreaking work on indigenous culture, Braiding Sweetgrass. Now a nonagenarian, Mrs. Flemer was also seen walking the grounds, her imagination still fertile as she continues to build on her whimsical creation. She continues to inspire the next generation of horticulturalists, botanists, sculptors, artists, chefs (as evidenced by the innovative fare we had for lunch in Garden Café) and yes, even travel writers.

Heading Back to New Brunswick, Canada

Hopewell Rocks, New BrunswickNow that the border is open to Americans, head north and escape to the great outdoors of Canada. Late summer and early fall are a great time to visit the country and I plan to do exactly that, heading to New Brunswick tomorrow. From Boston, I can be in the seaside village of St. Andrews in 6 hours. New Brunswick is the gateway to the Atlantic Maritimes, leading to exceptional sea kayaking along the coast at Fundy National Park and hiking along the newly completed Fundy Trail Parkway. I’ll also be whale watching and trying one or two craft brews in Fredericton, which has more microbreweries per capita than any other spot in Canada. Please follow along next week at ActiveTravels to see my blogs, Tweets, Instagram photos, and YouTube videos.

Club Med Quebec Charlevoix to Open in December

Club Med Quebec Few industries have been impacted more than travel this past year and a half. Navigating through the dizzying array of restrictions and requirements is no easy feat and can leave this eternal optimist exhausted and disheartened. But then I read about a new hotel opening in an area of the globe I’d like to check out and I’m just as excited as I was 30 years ago when I first entered the travel world, writing a story on the hotel Robert Louis Stevenson stayed when visiting Levuka, Fiji in the late 19th century. This pandemic has been a long slog, yet remarkably hotel groups continue to build and invest in the travel industry. That alone gives me a glimmer of hope.

Opening December 2021 is Club Med’s first foray in Canada and it’s a beauty. Having written about skiing Le Massif for the Boston Globe, I’ve had the good fortune to witness the exquisite views of the St. Lawrence Seaway from the slopes. Located 90 minutes northeast of Québec City in the Le Massif de Charlevoix region, the four-season all-inclusive mountain resort is spread across 300 acres. The new Club Med offers 302 rooms and a private luxury space featuring 25 suites. All-inclusive dining features the main restaurant, Le Marché, the gourmet lounge, Le Chalet, and the family restaurant, Terroir & Co, where kids and parents will enjoy fondue and raclette, local Québec cheeses and charcuteries, freshly baked cookies, and Québec’s famous maple taffy. Aside from ski-in/ski-out access, guest will enjoy ice skating, dogsledding, and sugar shack visits in the winter; biking, guided hiking tours, and whale watching in the warmer months. Let ActiveTravels know your dates and we’ll check availability and package together with Quebec City.

Le Germain Montreal Exterior Now a Colorful Mural

Le Germain Hotel Montreal MuralIf you’re one of the many Americans finally crossing the border into Quebec to get a much-needed dose of French flavor, then don’t miss the Mural Arts Program that starts today. A guided tour will bring you to more than 20 impressive works of street art along the Saint Laurent Boulevard. Also take a slight detour to Mansfield Street near the McGill University campus to see the fabulous exterior of the Le Germain Hotel Montreal. Artist Michelle Hoogveld has created a multicolored 171-foot work of art aptly named Dazzle My Heart that will no doubt liven up this downtown corridor. Better yet, spend the night at the property which recently underwent a multi-million dollar renovation.